The Portland, Ore.-based chef-turned-food writer and has written 11 cook books, about everything from pizzas to midnight munchies. “My interest in food came from a summer job I had at a restaurant,” Morgan said. “I had some great mentors there who made me really interested in food.”
Recently she published “Salmon,” a cook book about her epic but entertaining quest to learn everything there is to know about the feisty fish.
“I’ve always had a very special interest in salmon,” said Morgan. “It’s always been my favorite food, so when my publisher approached me with a book project about salmon I jumped right on it.”
Her adventure took her around the world, from Alaska to Scotland, and finally to Norway. “I had a great trip to Norway. I visited the Wild Salmon Center in Lærdal, and they’re doing very interesting work. I also took the train from Oslo to Flåm, and it was such a great way to see the countryside.”
“The visit to Lærdal was very helpful, and it gave me a lot of background about the environmental issues associated with farmed fish,” Morgan said. At the center’s observatory, she was able to view wild salmon and trout through panoramic windows looking into the river itself. “Farmed or wild, salmon is extremely healthy, and is the ultimate source of protein.”
“To me, food is about a passion for life,” said Morgan. “It is a way to create cultural exchange, and it’s a way for different people to come together and experience each other’s cultures.”
Shaved Fennel, Lemon, and Arugula Salad, with Pan-Seared Salmon
Vinaigrette
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 clove garlic, minced
½ teaspoon sugar
¾ teaspoon kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
1. In a small jar with a tight-fitting lid, combine the extra-virgin olive oil, lemon zest and juice, garlic, sugar, salt, and lots of pepper.
2. Cover tightly and shake vigorously to blend.
The Salad
3 cups thinly sliced fennel bulb (fronds reserved)
2 bunches arugula (about 1/2 pound total), stemmed
4 salmon fillets (about 5 ounces each), skin on and scaled, pin bones removed
1. Chop the fennel fronds and measure out 1/3 cup.
2. In a large bowl, combine the fennel, ¼ cup of the fennel fronds (saving the rest for garnish), and the arugula.
3. Toss lightly to mix and set aside.
4. Season the salmon on all sides with kosher or sea salt and freshly ground pepper.
5. Place a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When the skillet is hot, add 3 tablespoons of olive oil and swirl to coat the pan.
6. Add the salmon, skin side down, and cook until the skin is crisp, about 4 minutes. Carefully turn the salmon and cook until the fillets are almost opaque throughout, but still very moist, or an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 125º to 130ºF, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a warm plate and set aside while you toss the salad.
7. Shake the dressing vigorously again and then toss the salad with it.
8. Arrange the salad on 4 dinner plates. Place a salmon fillet in the center, on top of the salad, garnish with the remaining fennel fronds, and serve immediately.